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▲荷蘭珠寶首飾設(shè)計(jì)師Leen Heyne

Nijmegen, where Leen was born, is the oldest city in the Netherlands. The 2000-year-old city, situated near the German border, dates back to the Roman Empire.

Born in 1986, Leen grew up in an academically oriented family as the oldest of three siblings, taking responsibility from an early age. His father is a Doctor of Social Science and his mother an artist. Later the family moved to Tilburg, where his mother took a position at the De Pont Museum (one of the world\'s leading private contemporary art museums) developing educational projects.

Leen Heyne1986年出生于奈梅根，荷蘭最古老的城市之一。這個(gè)城市位于荷蘭和德國(guó)的交界處，已存在兩千多年，歷史可追溯到羅馬帝國(guó)時(shí)期。

他在一個(gè)學(xué)術(shù)家庭長(zhǎng)大，并作為長(zhǎng)子早早就開(kāi)始承擔(dān)家庭責(zé)任。他的父親是一名社會(huì)科學(xué)博士，他的母親是一名藝術(shù)家。后來(lái)全家搬到蒂爾堡，他的母親在德龐特博物館(世界頂級(jí)的私人藝術(shù)博物館)任職并負(fù)責(zé)開(kāi)發(fā)教育項(xiàng)目。

Leen Heyne的珠寶首飾作品 注：以上作品圖片由Ingmar Swalue拍攝

In addition to his mother taking him to art galleries and museums, he was also naturally curious and mechanically inclined. He had busy hands from the beginning. During his childhood, his interests ranged from making model boats to discovering "small treasures," in second-hand markets. Describing the finds as old and old and well-made objects, he collected ornate rings, rare knives, and sturdy hand tools. Although fascinated by nature and history , he was not a serious student. The structure was not easy to accept and he even had to repeat a year. Nevertheless, he found biology and math interesting. After graduating high school in 2002, he decided to strike out on his own.

除了母親帶他去的那些畫(huà)廊和博物館外，他還對(duì)機(jī)械著迷。他從小就心靈手巧，童年時(shí)期的主要興趣有制作小船模型以及在二手市場(chǎng)淘貨。他收集華麗的戒指、做工精良的刀具、還有能使用的手工工具。雖然他被自然及歷史深深吸引，也未能成為一個(gè)嚴(yán)格意義上的好學(xué)生。在復(fù)讀了一年后依然難以接受學(xué)校的課程體系，因此2002年高中畢業(yè)后他決定自力更生。

《風(fēng)》

《絲帶與淚滴》灰色18K金鑲棕色梨形鉆石戒指

Determined to be independent, he refused help from his parents and even declined scholarships. For the next four years, he lived frugally, trying different things from washing dishes in a restaurant to collecting old bicycles which he repaired and sold for a profit.During the evenings, he partied a lot and enjoyed life like anyone else in their early 20s. He commented that, during those wonder years, he spent much of his free time drawing pictures. Yet he never considered himself artistic nor gave much thought to his "busy hands" or creative energy.

決定獨(dú)立后，他拒絕了家里的資助并放棄了獎(jiǎng)學(xué)金。剛開(kāi)始的四年他過(guò)得非常節(jié)約，嘗試各種不同的工作，包括在飯店洗盤(pán)子、回收舊自行車(chē)并維修出售。夜晚則是像大部分二十多歲的年輕人一樣參加各種派對(duì)。那些年他的業(yè)余時(shí)間幾乎都用來(lái)畫(huà)畫(huà)。但是他并不認(rèn)為自己有藝術(shù)天賦，對(duì)靈巧的雙手、創(chuàng)造性思維也未多加利用。

《結(jié)》

《結(jié)》黃色18K金鑲古董鉆石戒指

Eventually, he found his way to Schoonhoven (2006), enrolling at the local vocational school (Vakschool Schoonhoven). Still undecided and balancing a part-time job, he studied each, goldsmithing and clock repair, one day per week. Fascinated by the Art Deco period, he aimed to recreate pieces from "Gatsby era." After a year he dropped the clock repair studies. During his second year, he apprenticed under the renowned Dutch master-goldsmith Jos van den Elzen. Leen commented that he was a very demanding teacher and he continues to consult him until this day. During that time, Leen started to develop his trademark design and the underlying techniques.

2006年，他前往斯洪霍芬的成人職業(yè)學(xué)校進(jìn)修。剛開(kāi)始為了平衡學(xué)習(xí)和兼職，他每周花一天時(shí)間同時(shí)學(xué)習(xí)金工和鐘表維修。被裝飾藝術(shù)時(shí)期的風(fēng)格吸引，他致力于復(fù)原加茨比時(shí)代的物件。一年后他放棄鐘表維修，并師從荷蘭著名的金工藝術(shù)家Jos van den Elzen全心學(xué)習(xí)金工。他說(shuō)師傅要求非常嚴(yán)格，至今對(duì)他仍有啟發(fā)。從那時(shí)起，他開(kāi)始建立自己的風(fēng)格及獨(dú)特的加工技法。

《旋轉(zhuǎn)》

Many of his rings and bangles are crafted from nothing more than a single gold or silver band featuring one or several twists. Leen Heyne hammers, folds, draws out and bends the precious metal for as long as it needs to adopt the desired shape.”The flowing, dynamic progression of these “folds” and the silky matte sheen of the metal remind the beholder of the gentle drape and texture of real silk. What looks so natural, however, is the result of painstaking work and exquisite handcraftsmanship.

他認(rèn)為自己是一個(gè)指揮家而非設(shè)計(jì)師。他說(shuō)他從不控制金屬，只是幫助金屬找到自己的形狀。他常用的金屬有銀、黃金、鉑金，最喜歡的是18K黃金。他不用銼刀為作品整形，也不采用任何現(xiàn)代化工具。他的許多戒指和手鐲僅通過(guò)若干彎曲制作而成。此外，他還通過(guò)捶打、褶皺、拉伸等技法來(lái)達(dá)到造型要求。流線(xiàn)型的褶皺和絲綢般的肌理效果很容易讓觀察者聯(lián)想到真正的絲綢。顯然將金屬做出看起來(lái)非常自然的褶皺、彎曲來(lái)自于大量艱苦的練習(xí)，也正是工匠精神的體現(xiàn)。

《旋轉(zhuǎn)》925銀手鐲

· 王曉慧，藝術(shù)學(xué)碩士，云南旅游職業(yè)學(xué)院寶玉石鑒定與加工專(zhuān)業(yè)專(zhuān)職教師，主要講授課程有《珠寶首飾手繪設(shè)計(jì)》《工藝編結(jié)》《玉文化》《觀賞石》等。

來(lái)源：https://new.qq.com/rain/a/20200523A064A000